Visit La Tour Carbonnière

Just 15 minutes from the house, La Tour Carbonnière is one of the most atmospheric and rewarding outings in the Camargue. Rising unexpectedly from the middle of the marshes near Saint-Laurent-d’Aigouze, this solitary medieval watchtower was built at the end of the 13th century to guard the only road into the fortified town of Aigues-Mortes. In a text from 1346 it was described as “the key to the kingdom in this land”, a reminder of just how important this lonely outpost once was. Today, a short wooden walkway leads through the reeds and wetlands to the tower itself. Climb the steps to the terrace and you are rewarded with one of the most spectacular views in the region. From here, the Petite Camargue stretches out in every direction: vast marshes, shimmering lagoons, reed beds and, on a clear day, even the distant outlines of Mont Ventoux and Pic Saint-Loup. The tower is also a wonderful place for spotting wildlife. Depending on the season, you may see pink flamingos, grey herons, little egrets, swans, moorhens and even coypu in the marshes below. Keep an eye out too for the famous white Camargue horses and black bulls grazing in the distance. Part history lesson, part nature walk and part breathtaking viewpoint, La Tour Carbonnière is especially magical at sunrise or sunset, when the light over the marshes is at its most beautiful. For those who want to make a longer morning of it, the trail from Saint-Laurent-d'Aigouze village to the tower is one of the best walks in the Petite Camargue. The route covers around 12 kilometres there and back, following a flat path along the old causeway and the banks of the Canal du Rhône à Sète through the heart of the marsh. The surface is easy underfoot for most of the year: a mix of compacted track and a wooden boardwalk that crosses directly over the wetlands. The path can become muddy after heavy winter rain. Bikes are welcome too, and the gentle terrain makes the ride straightforward for all ages. Dogs are welcome throughout on a lead, which is required across this protected landscape. It is worth keeping them close to the path rather than letting them explore the reed beds: the marsh is home to nesting birds at certain times of year, and the channels can be deeper than they look. That said, it is not demanding country, and a well-behaved dog will find the walk as absorbing as you do. The smells alone appear to be considerable. The trail is at its best in the early morning, when the light comes in low over the étangs and the marsh is at its quietest. Flamingos are a near-certainty in the warmer months, usually visible from the path itself. On still days, the reflections in the water are almost disorienting. The same pink, the same sky, above and below.