To understand the Camargue is to understand a landscape that refuses to be hurried. It is a territory of shifting light and ancient traditions, where the freshwater of the lakes, rivers and marshes of the Gard eventually meets the salt-rich influence of the Mediterranean. While staying in Aimargues, you will notice a recurring silhouette. It is forged in iron on the gates of old mas, carved into the stone of village squares, and worn as a talisman by those who work the land. This is the Croix Camarguaise. Its history is deeply layered and central to the identity of the region you are visiting.
The Birth of an Icon
The cross was not born of ancient antiquity, though it possesses a timeless quality that suggests it has always been here. It was conceived in 1924 by the Marquis de Baroncelli. He was a central figure in the preservation of local culture and recognized that as the modern world encroached, the distinct identity of the gardians (the herdsmen of the black bulls) needed a visual anchor. Baroncelli commissioned the architect Hermann-Paul to design a symbol that would unite the three core virtues of the region.
The design is deliberate. The cross terminates in three-pronged ends known as fiches, representing the tridents used by the gardians to work the bulls. This signifies faith. Beneath the cross sits an anchor, a tribute to the fishermen of the coast and a symbol of hope. At the center, a heart represents the Maries of the sea and the virtue of charity. It is a rare thing: a relatively modern invention that has become the ancient soul of a landscape.
Forged in Local Iron
During the restoration of La Maison d’à Coté, we felt it was essential that the house reflected this heritage without leaning into clichés. As you move between the ground floor and the bedrooms upstairs, you will find a piece of this history integrated into the very structure of the home. We commissioned a local metal artisan to craft a bespoke Croix Camarguaise that takes pride of place on our wrought iron staircase banister. It was forged in a traditional workshop just a short drive from Aimargues, hammered into shape by hands that understand the specific weight and history of Camarguais ironwork.
This choice reflects our belief in providing character without compromise. The house is a base for exploration, but it is also a place where the craftsmanship of the region is felt in the small, considered details. To see the cross on the banister is to be reminded that you are staying in a house that belongs to the Camargue, rather than one that simply happens to be situated within it.
The Journey to the Coast
To find the original heart of the cross, a trip to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is unavoidable. This coastal village is where the symbol was first officially inaugurated. It sits at the edge of the Mediterranean, a place of pilgrimage and vibrant local life. The village is home to a stunning fortified Romanesque church where the traditions of the gardians are celebrated. From the roof of the church, you can look out over the red-tiled town and the vast blue horizon.
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is also home to the Arènes, where you can witness Camargue displays. These sessions provide total immersion in the culture, offering a talked-through format that explains the relationship between the gardian, the white horse, and the black bull. Between displays, you can wander the narrow streets to find small boutiques and local eateries that serve the salt-grown produce of the region.
The Slow Path to Discovery
The best way to experience the Camargue is to adopt an unhurried pace. Start your morning with a coffee in the garden of La Maison d’à Coté. When you are ready, head toward the Musée de la Camargue at Mas du Pont de Rousty. This museum, housed in a former sheepfold, provides the necessary context for understanding how the gardian identity was forged in the face of industrial change.
After exploring the museum and the coastal sights of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, make your way back toward Aimargues. On the return leg, stop at a local cellar to pick up a bottle of Vin des Sables. These wines are grown in the unique sandy soils of the region and carry a lightness that perfectly suits an evening by the pool. As the day softens back at the house, take a moment to look at the ironwork on the staircase. It is a reminder that you are part of a story of faith, hope, and a deep, generous love for this distinctive corner of Southern France.
Whether you are here for a milestone celebration or a quiet week of slow travel, the presence of the cross ensures your stay is anchored in something real. It is the signature of a region that values its past as much as its present.